oyster bar,  restaurant reviews,  seafood,  west village

Pearl Oyster Bar’s Hugely Chunky Lobster Roll and More

I went with my friends Nik and Jack to Pearl Oyster Bar solely because I’d read a Chowhound thread about the lobster pot pie they were making for two weeks only. Apparently this thing was such a big deal that they’d sell out of it within moments of opening the doors, so we rushed to the West Village on a Monday night right after work and tried to order the lobster pot pie before we even saw the menu. Of course that was the only night they’d decided to take a break from making it.

Luckily, Pearl Oyster Bar happens to be known for its lobster roll, and in fact, Chef Rebecca Charles is said to have been the first chef to bring the lobster roll from New England to New York City. Three lobster rolls, three clam chowders, and a plate of fried oysters later, we weren’t missing that lobster pot pie in the least.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
New England clam chowder with smoked bacon

Perfectly creamy with just a hint of seafood flavor, this was almost geared more toward the bacon-lovers than the clam-lovers. So I loved it.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
fried oysters

The guys, neither of which actually likes oysters, said these melted in their mouths and had none of the slimy texture that oyster-haters always cite. They loved the thick, crispy breading and the dollop of tartar sauce served in the shells.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
lobster roll

You have to like mayo to like Pearl Oyster Bar’s lobster roll. You also have to like huge, unbroken hunks of lobster meat. The chunks were sometimes so big that I had to take them off the roll and eat them with a fork and knife. And yet there was so much lobster meat on the roll that even removing half of it left me with a full, fat sandwich. The bun was browned and buttery, just slightly crisp on the outside. It was seasoned just right, with enough going on to hold my interest but never so much as to overpower the fresh, clean lobster flavor.

And as if that wasn’t enough on its own, the lobster roll came with a side of shoestring fries piled higher than the lobster itself. They were a little too thin and difficult to eat for me, but if shoestring is your thing, these had the crunch and the salt you’re looking for.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
shoestring fries

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
Callebaut chocolate mousse

This Belgian chocolate mousse was just as dark and thick as it looks, but we weren’t prepared for how unsweet it was. The whipped cream, too. It was like eating frosting made for adults.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC
hot fudge sundae

I expected something other than hot fudge and ice cream in this sundae, but nope, it was straight-up classic. The fudge lined the side of the glass from top to bottom and was a nice unsweet contrast to the vanilla ice cream.

Pearl Oyster Bar NYC

Pearl Oyster Bar is what I consider the definitive West Village restaurant. It’s not a hip new East Village place crowded with college kids but a neighborhoody one that’s casual enough for an everyday dinner but also cute enough for a grown-up date. It feels relaxed and established, like a seafood shack in an old fishing town, but there’s just enough of an edge to the food to remind you you’re in NYC.

Pearl Oyster Bar
18 Cornelia Street
New York, NY 10014 (map)

7 Comments

  • kimz

    If you hadn’t actually chewed upon the lobster chunks, I would have sworn that was just a roll full of mayo with some added lobster flavor. Lobster is so good on it’s on – why smother it?!

    • donuts4dinner

      I wouldn’t complain about a roll full of mayo, which maybe biases me toward this lobster roll, but I really didn’t think it overpowered the lobster flavor at all. I definitely do think there’s something to be said for the lightly-dressed lobster, though.

    • donuts4dinner

      Thanks! I just messed around with Curves until I got something desaturated. I’m not sure just adding a white fill layer wouldn’t do the same thing, but Curves makes me feel like a grownup.