Gabriel Kreuther Probably Deserves More Than One Michelin Star

Chef Gabriel Kreuther left the Michelin-starred Modern a couple of years ago and took his pastry chef with him to open up his new namesake space in the Grace Building across from Bryant Park. Beloved from the get-go, the restaurant earned a Michelin star of its own in its first year, but having tried the 4-course, $125 tasting menu a few weeks ago, I can’t imagine that it won’t gain another star or even two in the coming years.

It wasn’t as fussy as the three-Michelin-starred favorites in the city thanks to touches of whimsy here and there in elements like a stork-patterned wallpaper (the stork is a symbol of rebirth in Kreuther’s native Alsatian homeland), but the main dining room felt classic and elegant with its cushy cream banquettes and exposed wood beams. The food was stunningly beautiful but still at times a little silly, and I mean that in the best way. Who doesn’t want a mezcal cocktail served in a coconut shell in the middle of a frou-frou French meal?

I lived for the many loaves of bread that came out between courses and love a chef who makes me unable to resist ordering sweetbreads even though I sort of can’t believe that’s something we choose to eat as humans. But I mean, these were fried in duck fat. The sturgeon and sauerkraut tart is a must-order just for the dramatic smoke-filled dome presentation, and my blackberry chocolate dessert actually made meringue seem like more than just crunchy air. The flavors were bold, and there was always just that ~something~ on the plate–a celery leaf or a sprinkle of pancetta–that I wouldn’t have thought to put there.